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Pruning

Woody Herb Pruning: A Comprehensive Guide to Keeping Your Herbs Healthy and Looking Their Best

by Gregory August 2, 2024

written by Gregory 3 minutes read

Woody Herb Pruning: A Comprehensive Guide for Beginners

Introduction

Woody herbs, such as rosemary, lavender, and thyme, are perennial plants that can grow quite large if not properly cared for. Pruning is an essential part of maintaining woody herbs, as it helps to control their size and shape, and encourages them to produce more foliage.

When to Prune Woody Herbs

The best time to prune woody herbs is in the spring, once new growth can be seen at the base of the plant. You can also prune woody herbs after they have finished flowering.

How to Prune Woody Herbs

When pruning woody herbs, it is important to only cut back a third of the plant at a time. Any more than this could damage the plant.

In the spring: Cut back new growth to just above a set of leaves.
During the summer: Remove any spent flowers and prune back any stems that are getting too long.

Why Prune Woody Herbs?

Pruning woody herbs has several benefits, including:

Controlling the size and shape of the plant: Pruning helps to keep woody herbs from getting too large and unruly.
Encouraging new growth: Pruning stimulates the plant to send out new shoots, which results in a fuller, bushier plant.
Promoting flowering: Pruning helps to promote flowering by removing spent flowers and encouraging the growth of new flower buds.
Improving air circulation: Pruning helps to improve air circulation around the plant, which can help to prevent disease.
Preventing pests and diseases: Pruning helps to remove dead and diseased branches, which can help to prevent the spread of pests and diseases.

Tips for Pruning Woody Herbs

Use sharp pruners: Sharp pruners will make clean cuts that will not damage the plant.
Cut at a slant: Cut branches at a 45-degree angle to help prevent water from collecting on the cut surface.
Avoid pruning in the fall: Pruning in the fall can encourage new growth that will be killed by the winter cold.
Prune regularly: Pruning woody herbs regularly will help to keep them healthy and looking their best.

Additional Tips for Maintaining Woody Herbs

In addition to pruning, there are a few other things you can do to keep your woody herbs healthy and thriving:

Water regularly: Woody herbs need regular watering, especially during the hot summer months.
Fertilize monthly: Fertilize woody herbs monthly with a balanced fertilizer.
Mulch around the plants: Mulching helps to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
Protect from pests and diseases: Inspect your woody herbs regularly for pests and diseases. Treat any problems promptly to prevent them from spreading.

By following these tips, you can keep your woody herbs healthy and looking their best for years to come.

Fruit Trees

How to Prune Fig Trees in Containers: A Step-by-Step Guide

by Gregory July 30, 2024

written by Gregory 4 minutes read

How to Prune Fig Trees in Containers

Fig trees are a great addition to any garden, and they can be grown successfully in containers. However, pruning fig trees in containers is a bit different than pruning them in the ground. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you get started:

When to Prune Fig Trees in Containers

The best time to prune fig trees in containers is after the fruit has ripened, usually in midsummer. This gives the tree time to harden off the new growth that is stimulated by cutting.

How to Prune Fig Trees in Containers

Gather your tools. You will need a sharp pair of bypass pruners and a pair of gloves.
Remove any suckers. Suckers are small shoots that grow from the rootstock of the tree. They can be removed by cutting them off at the base.
Trim off any excess branches. You want to leave three to four strong peripheral branches. Choose one straight stem for a central leader.
Prune the remaining branches. Cut back the remaining branches by about one-third. This will help to create a strong, open canopy.
Clean up the tree. Remove any dead or diseased branches, and cut off any branches that are rubbing against each other.

Tips for Pruning Fig Trees in Containers

Use sharp tools. Dull tools can crush the branches, making them more susceptible to disease.
Make clean cuts. Clean cuts will heal quickly and help to prevent disease.
Don’t overprune. Fig trees do not need to be pruned heavily. Overpruning can weaken the tree and reduce fruit production.

How to Care for Potted Fig Trees

In addition to pruning, potted fig trees need regular care to stay healthy and productive. Here are a few tips:

Water regularly. Fig trees need about 1 inch of water per week. Water more frequently during hot, dry weather.
Fertilize regularly. Fig trees should be fertilized monthly during the growing season. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 fertilizer.
Provide support. Potted fig trees may need support to keep them from falling over. You can use a stake or a trellis to provide support.
Protect from cold weather. Fig trees are not cold hardy, so they need to be protected from cold weather. You can bring them indoors for the winter, or you can wrap them in burlap or other protective material.

Troubleshooting Common Problems with Potted Fig Trees

Here are a few common problems that you may encounter when growing fig trees in containers:

Leaves turning yellow. This can be a sign of nutrient deficiency. Fertilize the tree regularly to correct the problem.
Fruit dropping off the tree. This can be a sign of overwatering or underwatering. Water the tree regularly, but do not overwater.
Pests. Fig trees can be susceptible to pests, such as aphids and scale. Treat the tree with an insecticidal soap or neem oil to control pests.

By following these tips, you can keep your potted fig tree healthy and productive for many years to come.

Additional Resources

Growing Vegetables

Basil: How to Avoid and Troubleshoot Woody Stems

by Gregory July 24, 2024

written by Gregory 3 minutes read

Basil: Troubleshooting Woody Stems

Basil is a versatile herb that’s easy to grow, but it can sometimes develop woody stems. This can be frustrating for gardeners who want to enjoy the tender, young leaves of basil.

What Causes Woody Stems in Basil?

Basil stems become woody when the plant is stressed. This can happen for a number of reasons, including:

Lack of pruning
Flowering
Cold temperatures

How to Avoid Basil with Woody Stems

The best way to avoid basil with woody stems is to prune the plant regularly. This encourages new growth and prevents the plant from flowering. You should also avoid exposing basil to cold temperatures.

How to Prune Basil

To prune basil, simply snip off the top few inches of the plant. You can also harvest individual leaves or entire stems. Be sure to cut above a pair of leaves to encourage new growth.

How to Extend the Life of Basil Plants

Basil is an annual plant, but you can extend its life by bringing it inside when the weather starts to get cold. Give the plant plenty of light and water it regularly. Production will slow down in the winter, but you should still be able to harvest some fresh basil leaves.

Troubleshooting Woody Stems in Basil

If your basil plants already have woody stems, there are a few things you can do to try to revive them:

Prune the plant: Cut back the woody stems to a few inches above the ground. This will encourage new growth.
Fertilize the plant: Give the plant a light dose of fertilizer to help it recover.
Water the plant regularly: Basil needs regular watering, especially during hot weather.
Avoid exposing the plant to cold temperatures: If you live in a cold climate, bring the plant inside when the weather starts to get cold.

With a little care, you can keep your basil plants healthy and productive all season long.

Additional Tips for Growing Basil

Basil likes full sun and well-drained soil.
Water basil regularly, but avoid overwatering.
Fertilize basil lightly every few weeks.
Basil can be grown in containers or in the ground.
Basil is a companion plant for tomatoes, peppers, and beans.

Enjoy your basil!

Berry Gardening

Ultimate Guide to Pruning Black Raspberries for a Bountiful Harvest

by Donna July 24, 2024

written by Donna 3 minutes read

Pruning Black Raspberries for a Bountiful Harvest

Black raspberries are a delicious and nutritious fruit that can be grown in even small gardens with proper pruning and training. Pruning helps to maintain healthy, productive canes, resulting in a more abundant harvest. Here’s a detailed guide to pruning black raspberries for optimal growth and fruit production.

When to Prune Black Raspberries

First Year:

Leave the plants alone. Do not prune them.

Second Year and Beyond:

Early Fall (after fruiting): Remove dead, damaged, or weak canes. Thin remaining canes to 5-10 per plant. Head back lateral branches 4-7 inches for blacks or 6-10 inches for purples. Top all canes to 36 inches if not topped earlier.
Spring (before bud break): Cut down canes that produced berries the previous year. Thin out canes, leaving only 4-6 of the most vigorous canes per hill. Cut lateral branches back to 8-10 buds from the cane.
Summer (June-July): Top raspberries to 36 inches several times to encourage lateral growth and strengthen canes.

How to Prune Black Raspberries

Materials:

Sharp pruning shears
Gloves
Sturdy shoes

Steps:

Early Fall Pruning:

Wear protective clothing to avoid getting stabbed by thorns.
Cut canes to a consistent height of 28-48 inches, with an ideal height of 36 inches.
This pruning signals the plant to produce more side branches.

Spring Pruning:

Wait until plants are budding but not leafing out.
Remove dead or damaged canes.
Thin canes to 4-6 per hill, choosing the most vigorous ones.
Cut lateral branches back to 8-10 buds from the cane.

Summer Topping:

Top raspberries to 36 inches in height several times during June and July.
This encourages lateral growth and increases cane strength.

Benefits of Pruning Black Raspberries

Promotes healthy cane growth.
Increases fruit production.
Makes harvesting easier.
Controls the size and spread of bushes.
Improves air circulation and reduces disease risk.

Tips for Pruning Black Raspberries

Use sharp pruning shears to make clean cuts.
Remove diseased or infested canes immediately.
Avoid pruning when canes are wet to prevent the spread of disease.
Fertilize plants after pruning to support new growth.
Mulch around plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

By following these pruning guidelines, you can maintain healthy black raspberry bushes and enjoy a bountiful harvest of delicious, nutritious berries.

Fruit Gardening

Growing Hardy Kiwi in Cool Climates: A Comprehensive Guide for Success

by Gregory July 22, 2024

written by Gregory 4 minutes read

Growing Hardy Kiwi: A Guide for Cool Climates

Introduction

Do you love the sweet and tangy flavor of kiwi fruit, but think you can’t grow them in your chilly climate? Think again! Newer varieties of hardy kiwi have made it possible to enjoy these delicious and nutritious fruits even in cooler regions.

What is Hardy Kiwi?

Hardy kiwi, also known as Actinidia arguta, is a type of kiwi that is native to Asia. Unlike the fuzzy brown kiwi you find in grocery stores, hardy kiwi are smaller, about the size of a large grape, and often have a rosy hue. They have tender, edible skin and are packed with Vitamin C and other nutrients.

Growing Hardy Kiwi

Growing hardy kiwi is not as difficult as you might think. Here are some tips to help you get started:

Choose the right variety: There are several varieties of hardy kiwi available, so it’s important to choose one that is well-suited to your climate. Some popular varieties for cool climates include ‘Issai’, ‘Geneva’, and ‘Anna’.
Plant in well-drained soil: Hardy kiwi prefer loamy soil that drains well. Avoid planting in areas that are prone to waterlogging.
Provide support: Hardy kiwi vines are vigorous growers and can reach heights of over 20 feet. They need strong trellising to support their growth, both vertically and horizontally.
Plant both male and female plants: Hardy kiwi are dioecious, meaning there are separate male and female plants. You will need to plant at least one male plant for every six female plants in order to get fruit.
Be patient: Hardy kiwi plants can take several years to mature and bear fruit. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t see fruit right away.

Pruning Kiwi Plants

Pruning is essential for keeping your hardy kiwi plants healthy and productive.

Dormant season pruning: Prune your hardy kiwi plants in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins. This will help to remove any dead or diseased wood and encourage the plant to grow in the desired direction.
Summer pruning: Hardy kiwi vines also need frequent pruning throughout the summer. Cut back the terminal growth to four to six leaves beyond the last flower. Also, remove any shoots that may appear on the older wood and trunk, as well as any entangled shoots.

Caring for Hardy Kiwi Plants

Once your hardy kiwi plants are established, they are relatively easy to care for.

Fertilize: Fertilize your hardy kiwi plants in the spring following the first planting. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, and apply it at a rate of two ounces per plant. You can increase the amount of fertilizer by two ounces each year, but do not exceed eight ounces per plant.
Water: Water your hardy kiwi plants regularly, especially during hot and dry weather. Avoid overwatering, as kiwi plants do not like wet feet.
Mulch: Mulch around your hardy kiwi plants to help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
Protect from pests and diseases: Hardy kiwi plants can be susceptible to certain pests and diseases, such as spider mites, leafrollers, thrips, and Japanese beetles. Be sure to inspect your plants regularly and treat any problems promptly.

Harvesting Kiwi

Hardy kiwi fruit is typically ready to harvest in late summer or early fall. The fruit should be firm to the touch and have a slight give when pressed. To harvest, simply cut the fruit from the vine with a sharp knife.

Conclusion

Growing hardy kiwi in cool climates is a rewarding experience. With a little patience and care, you can enjoy the delicious and nutritious fruits of these amazing plants for years to come.

Fruit Tree Care

Cherry Black Knot Disease: A Comprehensive Guide for Young Plant Enthusiasts

by Gregory July 21, 2024

written by Gregory 3 minutes read

Cherry Black Knot Disease: A Guide for Young Plant Enthusiasts

Introduction

Have you ever noticed strange, bumpy growths on cherry trees? These are called galls, and they’re caused by a fungal disease known as cherry black knot disease. It’s a serious problem that can affect both wild and cultivated cherry trees. In this article, we’ll explore the causes, symptoms, and treatment options for cherry black knot disease so you can protect your beloved cherry trees.

What is Cherry Black Knot Disease?

Cherry black knot disease is a fungal disease caused by the fungus Apiosporina morbosa. The fungus produces spores that spread through the air and rain, infecting young cherry tree tissues. These spores germinate and form galls, which are the visible signs of the disease.

Symptoms of Cherry Black Knot Disease

The most obvious symptom of cherry black knot disease is the presence of galls on the branches or trunks of cherry trees. Initially, these galls are small and brown, but they gradually grow larger, darker, and harder. Eventually, they crack open and release velvety, olive-green fungal spores.

Causes of Cherry Black Knot Disease

Cherry black knot disease is caused by a combination of factors, including:

Fungal spores: The fungus that causes cherry black knot disease is spread through the air and rain.
Susceptible host trees: Cherry trees in the Prunus family, such as wild cherry trees, ornamental cherry trees, and edible cherry trees, are all susceptible to the disease.
Environmental conditions: Warm, humid weather conditions favor the growth and spread of the fungus.

Treatment Options for Cherry Black Knot Disease

There is no cure for cherry black knot disease, but there are treatments that can help prevent its spread and protect healthy cherry trees.

Fungicides: Fungicides containing captan, lime sulfur, chlorothalonil, or thiophanate-methyl can be used to prevent new infections. They should be applied to new growth in spring or early summer.
Pruning: Pruning can be used to remove infected branches or galls. This should be done in winter when the tree is dormant. When pruning, cut off the entire branch if possible, or cut at least 1 to 4 inches beyond the gall to ensure that all infected tissue is removed.

Prevention Tips for Cherry Black Knot Disease

Avoid planting cherry trees near wild Prunus species, which are more susceptible to the disease.
Choose resistant cherry tree varieties when possible.
Keep your cherry trees healthy by providing them with proper care, including adequate water, sunlight, and nutrients.
Monitor your cherry trees regularly for signs of cherry black knot disease.

Conclusion

Cherry black knot disease is a serious fungal disease that can affect cherry trees. By understanding the causes, symptoms, and treatment options, you can protect your cherry trees and ensure their long-term health and beauty.

Fruit Trees

How to Grow Navel Oranges: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

by Gregory July 17, 2024

written by Gregory 3 minutes read

Growing Navel Oranges: A Beginner’s Guide

Introduction

Navel oranges are a delicious and easy-to-peel fruit that are popular all over the world. They are seedless and have a unique belly-button-shaped orange at the bottom.

Growing Navel Orange Trees

Navel orange trees are relatively easy to grow in warm climates. They prefer well-drained soil and full sunlight. In the United States, commercial navel orange trees are grown primarily in California, Arizona, and Florida.

Planting Navel Orange Trees

The best time to plant navel orange trees is in early to mid-spring. This gives the roots time to establish before temperatures drop in fall. If you live in a very hot climate, you can plant in fall when temperatures are cooler.

When planting a navel orange tree, be sure to choose a location that gets full sunlight. The tree should also be planted in well-drained soil. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Place the tree in the hole and backfill with soil, tamping down gently to remove any air pockets. Water the tree deeply.

Caring for Navel Orange Trees

Navel orange trees need regular watering, especially during the hot summer months. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.

Fertilize navel orange trees every six weeks from February to September. Use a balanced fertilizer or a citrus fertilizer.

Pruning is not necessary for navel orange trees, but you can remove dead, damaged, or crossing branches. Prune in late winter or early spring, before new growth appears.

Harvesting Navel Oranges

Navel oranges are ready to harvest when they are fully orange in color. The fruit should be firm to the touch and have a slight give when squeezed.

To harvest navel oranges, simply twist the fruit off the tree. Be careful not to damage the tree or the fruit.

Tips for Growing Navel Oranges

Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil.
Water the tree regularly, especially during the summer months.
Fertilize the tree every six weeks from February to September.
Prune the tree in late winter or early spring to remove dead, damaged, or crossing branches.
Harvest navel oranges when they are fully orange in color and firm to the touch.

Troubleshooting

If your navel orange tree is not producing fruit, it may be because the tree is not getting enough sunlight, water, or fertilizer. It may also be because the tree is too young. Navel orange trees typically begin to produce fruit after three to five years.

If your navel orange tree is producing fruit, but the fruit is small or misshapen, it may be because the tree is not getting enough nutrients. Fertilize the tree more frequently and make sure that the tree is getting enough water.

Conclusion

Growing navel oranges is a rewarding experience. With a little care and attention, you can grow a healthy tree that will produce delicious fruit for years to come.

Berry Growing

Blackberry Bush Winter Care: A Comprehensive Guide to Pruning, Protection, and Winterizing

by Gregory July 16, 2024

written by Gregory 4 minutes read

Blackberry Bush Winter Care: A Comprehensive Guide

Introduction

Blackberry bushes are a delicious and rewarding addition to any garden, but they require special care during the winter months to ensure a bountiful harvest the following year. This guide will provide you with all the information you need to prune, protect, and winterize your blackberry bushes for optimal growth and productivity.

Pruning Blackberries in Winter

Pruning is an essential part of blackberry bush winter care. It helps to remove weak and unproductive canes, improve air circulation, and promote new growth.

Identifying Canes

Before you start pruning, it’s important to identify the different types of canes on your blackberry bushes:

Primocanes: These are first-year canes that have not yet borne fruit.
Floricanes: These are second-year canes that have already fruited.

Pruning Erect Canes

For erect blackberry canes, prune in late winter. Remove all weak and spindly canes, leaving only the three or four strongest canes per plant. Cut back long, trailing branches on the remaining canes to 12-18 inches.

Pruning Trailing Canes

Trailing blackberry canes should also be pruned in late winter. Unlike erect canes, trailing canes lie on the ground. Prune them in the same way as erect canes, but only prune in the very beginning of winter, not the very end.

Winterizing Blackberries

Winterizing blackberries is crucial to protect them from extreme cold temperatures. The level of winter protection needed will depend on the cultivar you’re growing and your local climate.

Frost Tender Varieties

Frost tender blackberry varieties can survive temperatures down to 10 degrees Fahrenheit. If you expect the temperature to drop below this, you’ll need to take extra steps to protect your plants.

Hardy Varieties

Hardy blackberry varieties can survive temperatures down to -10 degrees Fahrenheit. These varieties generally require less winter protection.

Trailing Canes

After pruning, remove trailing canes from their stakes and lay them on the ground. Cover them with a thick layer of mulch for insulation.

Erect Canes

Erect canes are more cold-tolerant than trailing canes. If you expect extreme cold or chill winds, you can construct a windbreak around your plants for additional protection.

Additional Tips for Winterizing Blackberries

Choose the Right Variety: Select blackberry varieties that are suited to your local climate and USDA plant hardiness zone.
Water Regularly: Water your blackberry bushes deeply before the ground freezes. This will help to hydrate the plants and prevent them from drying out during the winter.
Avoid Fertilizing: Do not fertilize your blackberry bushes in the fall or winter. Fertilizing can stimulate new growth, which is vulnerable to cold temperatures.
Remove Debris: Clean up any fallen leaves or debris around your blackberry bushes to prevent disease and pests from overwintering.

Conclusion

By following these tips, you can help your blackberry bushes survive the winter months and thrive in the spring. With proper care, you’ll be rewarded with a bountiful harvest of delicious blackberries for years to come.

Gardening

How to Grow a Tamarisk Tree: A Comprehensive Guide

by Gregory July 13, 2024

written by Gregory 2 minutes read

How to Grow a Tamarisk Tree

Introduction

Tamarisk is a beautiful flowering shrub that thrives in sunny, well-drained areas. It’s native to the Mediterranean and Asia, but it’s also popular in coastal regions of the UK.

Characteristics

Tamarisk is a deciduous shrub or small tree that typically grows 2-5 meters tall. It has delicate, feathery foliage and small pink or white flowers that bloom from spring to early autumn. Tamarisk is a relatively low-maintenance plant that’s resistant to pests and diseases.

Planting

Choose a sunny location with well-drained, neutral to acidic soil.
Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep.
Place the tamarisk in the hole and backfill with soil, pressing down firmly around the base.
Water thoroughly and add a layer of mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Care

Water regularly, especially during dry periods.
Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer in spring.

Pruning

Prune tamarisk hard each year to keep its growth in check.
Summer-flowering species should be pruned in March.
Spring-flowering species should be pruned from June onwards.
Remove any crossing or rubbing branches to improve air circulation.

Propagation

Take hardwood cuttings in winter.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone and plant in a pot with well-draining soil.
Keep the soil moist and place the pot in a bright, sheltered spot.

Pests and Diseases

Tamarisk is generally pest and disease-free.
Root rot can occur if the soil is too wet or poorly drained.

Buying Tips

Look for healthy plants with strong roots and no signs of wilting or yellowing.
Make sure you have the right growing conditions before buying.

Conclusion

Tamarisk is a beautiful and easy-to-grow plant that’s perfect for gardens and coastal areas. With proper care, it can thrive for many years.

Gardening Techniques

How to Prune Sambucus: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

by Donna July 10, 2024

written by Donna 2 minutes read

Pruning Sambucus: A Guide for Beginners

Introduction

Pruning is an important part of gardening. It helps keep plants healthy and looking their best. Sambucus, also known as elder, is a type of shrub that can benefit from pruning. Pruning sambucus can help keep it compact and healthy, and it can also encourage flowering and fruiting.

When to Prune Sambucus

The best time to prune sambucus is in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins. This will give the plant time to recover from pruning and put on new growth in the spring.

How to Prune Sambucus

To prune sambucus, follow these steps:

Examine the plant. Look for any diseased or damaged branches. These should be removed first.
Cut back long stems. Use sharp loppers or secateurs to cut back long stems to just above a node. A node is a bulge or leaf scar on the stem.
Remove old or weak shoots. Cut out any old or weak shoots that are not producing new growth.
Create a well-formed framework. Keep cutting back stems until you have created a well-formed framework for the plant. This framework should have no weak stems at the base.

Benefits of Pruning Sambucus

Pruning sambucus has a number of benefits, including:

Keeps the plant compact and healthy
Encourages flowering and fruiting
Improves air circulation
Reduces the risk of disease

Tips for Pruning Sambucus

Here are a few tips for pruning sambucus:

Always use sharp tools.
Cut at a slant to prevent water from collecting on the cut.
Remove all diseased or damaged branches.
Don’t be afraid to cut back hard. Sambucus can tolerate hard pruning.
After pruning, fertilize the plant to help it recover.

Conclusion

Pruning sambucus is a simple task that can have a big impact on the health and appearance of the plant. By following these tips, you can keep your sambucus looking its best for years to come.

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